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Lamu is situated 341km by road northeast of Mombasa where the sea channel must be crossed to reach the island. It’s best reached by air either directly from Nairobi or from Mombasa or Malindi to the south. Life in the old town revolves around dhow sailing, beach walks and exploration of old settlements. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, many people call it the oldest living town in East Africa. It is rightly the most complete Swahili town in existence with all its charm and authenticity.
Getting around
Everything in the town is a stone throw away so there is no need for transport apart from boats. The streets are just wide enough to walk on and are best explored on foot. Donkeys are the most used form of heavy transport on the Island. You may opt to hire donkeys for rides around the Island as well. Alternatively, dhows regularly carry paying passengers back and forth.
Things to do in Lamu
There’s a wide variety of attractions on the island.
- Dhow sailing
- Indulge in Swahili dishes
- Visit the Museum
- Cultural festivals
- Water skiing, windsurfing, and kitesurfing
- Enjoy strolls on the beaches
- Visit Shela beach
- Visit the Donkey Sanctuary
Shela Beach
Shela is a very popular destination. It is located on the southeastern corner of the island. One can take a 10-minute boat ride or a 45-minute leisure walk along the seafront. The village offers visitors a wide range of accommodation including chic hotels, a range of guesthouses and many private villas. Accommodation ranges from around $20/night and above. Once you’ve identified a hotel or guest house you can book to your specifications via phone or email and voila! Your holiday destination awaits.
Just across the channel from Shela, there lies Manda Island. Mostly uninhabited, it provides the best spots for watching the wonderful sun setting behind the island. The Manda Island once held one of the Kenya coast’s largest settlements, but this once-thriving community abandoned the town in the 17th century. Today, the coral stone ruins are a popular destination for a day trip from Lamu or Shela.
Dhow Sailing
You can explore the archipelago by dhow. Dhow trips are the ultimate experience on a trip on the island and are relatively inexpensive. A safari by dhow can take you into the surrounding archipelago, where isolated villages, ancient ruins, and a few luxurious and exclusive resorts lie hidden among the islands of Manda, Siyu, Pate, and Kiwayu. Kiwayu is the most pristine of the islands and it is in a biosphere reserve.
There are licensed tour guides on the island that have a well-organized association and work together cooperatively. A romantic sunset cruise or a day excursion combining historical ruins and snorkeling. A unique experience of sleeping on a luxurious dhow, savoring a freshly caught fish on the beach. The island has a long history related to dhow sailing.
Lamu Museum
The museum was built in 1891 and is housed in a grand Swahili warehouse on the waterfront. It is the second-best museum in Kenya. The museum further elaborates on the Swahili culture. Exhibitions focus on boat-building, domestic life, the Siwa horns and the intricate door carvings that you’re likely to encounter. There are also exhibits dedicated to artifacts from Swahili ruins, the nautical heritage of the coast. The courtyard is available for weddings, meetings and theatre productions. At the ground floor, there is a permanent exhibition which is divided into three major sections.
- Marine
- Freshwater
- Terrestrial
Donkey Sanctuary
The sanctuary was established by the International Donkey Protection Trust of Sidmouth, UK. This was meant to improve the hard-working beasts of burden. The Sanctuary provides free treatment to all donkey. The twice-yearly de-worming programme on the island contributed immensely to the better health of the donkeys. It’s an educational visit for anyone interested. One can give a small donation towards the sanctuary’s efforts.
Lamu Fort
The fort is one of the popular destinations on the island. It was built by the Sultan of Pate between 1810 and 1823. It now houses the island’s library, which holds one of the best collections of Swahili poetry and reference work. The entry is free with a ticket for the museum.
Cultural Festivals
The Cultural Festival is a celebration of both the past and the future. A celebration of the beliefs and traditions that are the heart and soul of the community. Each year, the island comes to life during the annual Cultural Festival. Several competitions and races are staged during this week-long festival. These events are designed to encourage practices that are central to the township lifestyle. Activities include traditional Swahili poetry, handicrafts, henna painting, dhow racing, and swimming.
The week-long festival will also showcase traditional dances (ngomas), historical masterpieces, which have been an important expression of neighborhood rivalries. The real highlight of every festival involves the town’s most endearing symbol- the donkey race. The festival offers a sample of these time-honored activities against a backdrop of the beauty and splendor of the island’s archipelago
Overall, the people of Lamu are firm believers in tradition and custom. This is a society built on a respect for the past. For the traveler, it’s a hypnotically exotic experience, made even more enjoyable by the relaxed and welcoming attitudes around. To visit this island is to enter another world. Life slows down, and long days are spent strolling along the waterfront, exploring the town or relaxing on the beaches.
